Core vaccines: recommended for every puppy
Core vaccines protect against diseases that are widespread, serious, and capable of affecting any dog regardless of lifestyle. That is why they are recommended essentially universally rather than tailored to individual circumstances.
In most of the world the core set is distemper, adenovirus, parvovirus and rabies — usually delivered as a combination injection plus rabies separately, per local law.
| Vaccine | Protects against | Why it's core |
|---|---|---|
| Distemper | A severe viral disease affecting the respiratory, gastrointestinal and nervous systems | Often fatal; survivors can have permanent neurological damage |
| Parvovirus | A highly contagious gastrointestinal virus | Frequently fatal in unvaccinated puppies; survives in the environment for months |
| Adenovirus (hepatitis) | Infectious canine hepatitis, affecting liver and other organs | Serious, and the vaccine also cross-protects against one cause of kennel cough |
| Rabies | Rabies virus | Invariably fatal once symptomatic, transmissible to humans, and required by law in most places |
Why it takes several rounds
This is the part that confuses almost everyone, and it is worth understanding because it explains why you cannot simply vaccinate once and finish early.
Puppies absorb antibodies from their mother's first milk. Those maternal antibodies protect them for the first weeks of life — and, unhelpfully, they also neutralise vaccine given during that window. The level fades at a rate that differs from puppy to puppy and cannot be predicted without blood testing.
So the series repeats every two to four weeks through the window in which maternal antibodies might still be interfering. The final dose is the one that matters most, which is why it is given at or after around 16 weeks — by then maternal antibodies have reliably faded in essentially all puppies. Finishing the series early is the single most common reason a vaccinated-looking puppy still catches parvovirus.
The typical timeline
Most puppies start at six to eight weeks and finish at sixteen weeks or later. Your own vet may adjust this based on local disease prevalence, your puppy's history, and regional legal requirements for rabies — treat the table below as the shape of the schedule rather than as instructions.
| Age | Usually given | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 6–8 weeks | First DHPP/DAPP | Often given by the breeder or shelter before you collect them |
| 10–12 weeks | Second DHPP/DAPP | Non-core vaccines may start here based on lifestyle |
| 14–16 weeks | Third DHPP/DAPP + rabies | Rabies timing is set by local law |
| 16–20 weeks | Final dose if the series started early | This is the dose that reliably takes |
| 12–16 months | First adult boosters | Then typically every 1–3 years depending on the vaccine |
Non-core vaccines: it depends where you live
These are recommended based on real exposure risk rather than universally, which is why the answer genuinely differs between two puppies on the same street with different lifestyles. This is a conversation to have with your own vet, who knows the local picture.
- Bordetella (kennel cough) — commonly required for boarding, daycare and grooming
- Leptospirosis — relevant where there is wildlife, livestock, or standing water; increasingly recommended broadly in some regions
- Canine influenza — relevant during outbreaks and in high-density dog populations
- Lyme disease — relevant in tick-heavy regions
After the appointment
Mild reactions are common and expected: a quieter than usual evening, some soreness at the injection site, a slightly reduced appetite. These typically resolve within a day or so and are not a reason to skip future doses.
Serious reactions are rare but real, and they happen quickly. The distinction is worth knowing before you need it.
Socialising safely before the series is done
This is the genuine tension in puppy-raising, and it deserves to be stated plainly: the behavioural socialisation window closes at around sixteen weeks, which is roughly when the vaccination series finishes. Waiting for full protection before a puppy meets anything means missing the window that determines how they handle the world for the rest of their life.
Veterinary behaviour bodies are clear that the answer is not to wait. It is to socialise in ways that carry low infectious risk — which is a large category once you stop thinking of socialisation as meaning 'the dog park'. Our first 48 hours guide covers why the first week is still too early even for this.
Carry them
A puppy in your arms in a busy street sees traffic, buggies, hats, bikes and crowds without their feet touching contaminated ground.
Use private, known spaces
Your own garden, a friend's home, and the homes of people whose adult dogs are fully vaccinated and known to be gentle.
Invite the world in
Have visitors of different ages and appearances come to you — hats, beards, uniforms, walking sticks, children.
Ask about puppy classes
Well-run classes require proof of the vaccines given so far and clean their floors between sessions. Veterinary behaviour groups generally support attending them before the series completes.
Avoid the high-risk ground
Dog parks, pet shop floors, rest stops and anywhere with heavy unknown-dog traffic. Parvovirus persists in soil for months.